Port Augusta to Port Lincoln

Many travellers who claim to have followed the Wallaby Track around Australia have actually short-changed themselves by going across the top of Eyre Peninsula instead of travelling via Port Lincoln. It’s a really bad decision which leads to missing out on some of the most beautiful beaches in Southern Australia, many of which you can have all to yourself.

So when you get to Port Augusta if travelling to the west or to Ceduna if coming from the west, stick to the coastline and get to know this part of South Australia. Let’s assume you are travelling from the east and see what we can find.

Travelling south from Port Augusta, you will find the industrial city of Whyalla. Unless you are attracted to heavy industry and red dust, there are probably few reasons to dally here but the shopping isn’t too bad. If you are into fishing, particularly if you have a boat or enjoy rock hopping, look out for Point Lowley on the way into Whyalla. This is the location for an annual snapper fishing competition which often produces huge fish.

The next port of call after Whyalla is Cowell. This is a quiet little town enjoying the aquaculture boom and it is also famous for its jade mining. In recent times, it has also become a mecca for recreational divers owing to the discovery of large numbers of giant cuttlefish canoodling in the area.

A drive on-drive off ferry service also operates from Lucky Bay just north of Cowell and connects you to Wallaroo on the Yorke Peninsula. If you are travelling from the west, this reasonably priced service will give you a welcome break from driving. (Ring up in advance and ask if they have any ’specials’ and you may be pleasantly surprised). The only downside is that you will bypass the Flinders Ranges by taking this route.

If you are travelling south from Cowell, each of the small towns is worth a look. Arno Bay and Port Neill are pretty little towns with great bays and nice pubs. Don’t hurry past. Take some time to enjoy their laid-back ambience.

The last sizable town before you reach Port Lincoln is Tumby Bay. Here you will find a wide range of good accommodation including a free motorhome park on the northern approach to town. For fisherfolk and beach walkers, there are some simply gorgeous destinations to the north and south of this town. In winter, there’s a chance of spotting a whale or two cruising through the bay.

If you have a small boat, whiting, snapper and squid can be found nearby. The town has a marina and charter boats can take you out to visit the Sir Joseph Banks group of islands which are only about half an hour away in a fast boat. Out there, you may find monsterous King George Whiting and all sorts of other fish as well as a sealion colony and the chance of spotting pods of dolphin and perhaps a Great White Shark.

Pick up a local map so that you can explore the beaches south of Tumby Bay. The beaches at Trinity Haven, Thuruna and Redcliffs all provide good spots to catch a fish, go snorkling or search for shells or simply to walk on beaches with a reasonably firm surface. Anglers should throw a lure at spots where flathead may be lying in wait as there are some monsters around this part of the coast. If you prefer sheltered waters for a small boat, look out for Second Creek. In this shallow estuary, you can find some whiting, flathead and have a bit of fun with the occasional school of whiting.

Once you regain the highway, look out for the sign to Moonlight Bay. This is the jewel in the crown of this coast line. Pretty, private and teeming with fish. You can walk for a couple of miles along this deeply curving little bay and then cross over the sandhills of a small peninsula and just keep going for a few more miles. There are a few designated camping areas but no facilities at all so leave this beautiful pristine destination just the way you find it.

It is possible to drive safely on the beach if you have a 4WD but don’t get too close to the waters edge. The locals launch small boats from both ends of the beach. The beach is quite safe for swimming as a rule but a swimmer was taken by a Great White Shark not far from here so keep your wits about you.

After Tumby Baycomes the small township of Louth Bay. Again, you will find a nice long beach to walk along or to swim from but few facilities other than a golf course and a camp ground. Then it’s on to North Shields where you will find a popular but generally uncrowded Caravan Park and a good roadhouse for fuel and basic supplies. There’s another nice beach that goes forever and a small jetty that produces good catches of squid by night. If you are keen on snorkling, you can find good quantities of scallops within swimming range of the beach. Try the beach just on the eastern side of the boat ramp. The eastern end of the beach just out from the sandhills may reward the boaties with a meal of King George Whiting.

North Shields is only about 15 km from Port Lincoln and is one of several possible base camps for exploring this area. Your other options are the Kirton Point Caravan Park in Port Lincoln or perhaps Coffin Bay. There are also National Parks on the other side of Port Lincoln and at Coffin Bay if you prefer bush camping with minimal facilities for a small fee.

Our next stop will be Port Lincoln.